A little bit of vino with Snow Crab

crabes-bac-peche

If you live in the eastern part of Canada, with the arrival of spring, not only comes the good weather but also the delicious crustacean, the snow crab.

Rivaled only by its crustacean cousin the lobster, crabs sit at the temple of marine epicurean delights. Served alone, these protein-rich shellfish are delicious, but when paired with the appropriate vino they become mind blowing. There’s a simple reason white  wines are the perfect companions for crab dishes: It’s all about the acidity.

When matching crab and wine, both the crab and wine should be ultimately fresh. Fresh crabs retain their sweet natural flavors and snappy texture, while fresh wines feature good acidity. Epicureans around the world employ acidity to bring out the natural flavours of  seafood.We often sprinkle lemon on a dish, while in Thailand lemon grass is used while in Chinese gastronomy, sides of vinegar dipping sauces appear in the table. Naturally, my acidic liquid of choice is a lovely white or sparkling wine.

The best wine to pair with crabs very much depends on the type of crab and how it’s cooked. While good acidity is good way to start as it emphasizes the natural freshness of crabs, other qualities like fruitiness and minerality are also important.

One of the world’s most crab-friendly white wines is Albarino from the wine region Rias Baixas in the northwest of Spain. This is one of the most hilly and rocky wine regions in the world, and it has a rather harsh Atlantic climate. The wines produced in Rias Baixas  are highly aromatic and vibrantly fruity with mouth-puckering acidity. These qualities make them the perfect wines for your ultimat snow crab experience.

Viura is the most important white grape of the Rioja area in north-central Spain As you know Rioja is renowned for its tempranillo-based reds than its whites. Viura makes a less aromatic  wine than the aforementioned albariño, lacking the latter’s exotic aromas, flavors, and overall complexity. A favorite grape of the Spaniards during the summer months, when the temperatures get very hot. With its light alcohol and medium texture, Viura is my go wine with simple crab dishes such as salads or light pastas. Viura can  offer wonderful fruit with mineral notes, wild flowers and spice.

For centuries, Verdejo has been   deprived of its true glory, drafted into producing an oxidized, amber-coloured wine like sherry. It has only risen recently only with a pale color and bone-dry profile and has been  earning its rank  as one of Spain’s most thrilling white bargains.

In the last twenty-five years a revolution in Rueda has changed the style of the wines, and brought the region to the attention of the world’s wine connoisseurs. A reverence for the indigenous variety, Verdejo, has been combined with modern equipment and winemaking techniques to make Rueda one of Spain’s most cutting edge wine producing regions. Much of the harvest is done at night and every step of the winegrowing and winemaking process includes careful handling so that oxidation of the grapes is avoided. As a result, the Rueda Denomination of Origin (D.O. Rueda) was the first quality region to be approved by Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture for the larger Castilla y Leon region.

Verdejo is a fascinating grape, with great freshness and acidity balanced with rich body and notes of citrus, minerality. It goes well with any crustacean such as lobster or snow crab. When the snow crab season arrives, I always keep handy a bottle of Verdejo.

Wine Reccomendations for Crab season

Lagar de Cervera Rias Baixas 2015. SAQ # 13159272. $27.40

Classic mineral character of Albarino, complemented with some exotic stone fruit and tropical flavours. Steely acidity runs through the wine, giving it balance and character. A chic Albarino. Interesting match with a crab Thai salad.

Conde de Valdemar Finca Alto de Cantabria 2015. SAQ # 00860171. $19.85

Very exhuberant nose bringing to mind notes of peaches and apricot with floral and citric nuances. On the palate, it is fresh and round with elegant spices brought by a passage in french oak aging. Perfect with crab pasta dishes.

Ijalba Genoli 2016. SAQ #  00883033. $13.90

Lovely fruity aromas that bring to mind green apple, grapefuit, white flowers and lactic nuances. Dry, elegant and very harmonious. In this bottling, Ijalba brings out the best of the variety. Pair it simply with steamed crab with a touch of lemon.

Basa Rueda 2016. SAQ # 10264018. $16.20

An abundance of citrus and stone fruits on the nose lead prepares the drinker to a dry and elegant palate. The finish brings to mind more lemony and green apple flavours and is very refreshing. Lovely with snow crab and asparagus risotto.

 

Is Rueda losing interest for Verdejo

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One of the reasons that i love Spanish wines because they original. Spain has an amazing collection of wine varietals which are not exploited on their advantage.

The problem that i have in Rueda is Miss Sauvignon Blanc. Dont get me wrong, I like Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre, or Bordeaux. But Rueda has a such a magnificent territory in a high altitude climate, so why give such and importance to Sauvignon Blanc?

My sudden uneasiness with Sauvignon Blanc goes with the recent world Sauvignon contest held in Tordesillas. A selection of Spanish Sauvignons Blanc received a warm reception. These included Mantel Blanco and Palacio de Bornos from the 2015 vintage. Other wines selected by Spanish master of wine, Pedro Ballesteros were received well.

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Verdejo vineyards

There seems to be a contradiction between what the D.O Rueda wants and the image that this type of events portraits. The slogan of the apellation states that only Verdejo is the character of the appellation, reflecting the special characteristics of their soil. Although the percentage of Sauvignon Blanc is a mere 6% planted in Rueda ( 2013 harvest figures), it has encroaching slowly but surely in the appellation

Sauvignon Blanc was introduced in Rueda by the Marques de Riscal in 1974. Then, it was felt that the appellation needed a dynamic fresh look in the International markets. Emile Peynaud was brought to consult and being the good Bordelais, dismissed the Verdejo variety. Verdejo is prone to oxydation, and he reccomend to replace by Sauvignon Blanc if Rueda wanted to succed it.

Today, Rueda is doing well in the Spanish wine Industry. The Europeans specially the Germans like Rueda. However, the long term sucess of the appellation will rest of the promotion of native varieties.

And now for the tasting note:

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Chartier Créateur d’Harmonies Rueda 2014. $19.40. SAQ Code: 12831101

Aromas that bring to mind citric fruits, green apples with nuances of fresh coriander and a hint of almond with anis spice. On the mouth, structured and balanced with a complex and refreshing finale. Excellent with seafood asiatic based soups. 90/100.

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This Rueda is the seventh wine of the line of Chartier to appear in the SAQ shelves. This Rueda comes from very old vines of Verdejo ( 75 years old+). The soil in which the wine is born is similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, red pebbles, which tend to absorb the heat and distribute to the vines. Chartier uses indigenous yeast to vinify and the wines mostly spent his time in inox with a short time ( 3 months) in its lees.

Tasty accord: Bocata de Calamares with Cava and Verdejo

bocata

A very common scene in Madrid: people walking around the Plaza Mayor anytime, with a sandwich full of some fried rings that resemble onion rings. If you pay attention on it you should recognize the aroma. This is nothing less than a squid sandwich.  When i was living in Madrid back in 2002, I used to go bananas for this sandwich. Actually in Spanish, it is called bocata de calamares. Every sunday, i used to go the Prado museum, visit and study an specific wing and afterwards grab a Calamar sandwich. It was my idea of a happy sunday. I will have the sandwich or two with a beer.

But what is a squid sandwich exactly is? The squid sandwich is a piece of baguette bread (or a piece of bread), cut by the middle, but not entirely cut, filled with fried squids with olive oil. It can be flavored with lemon, mayonnaise and aïoli. If you want, you can have a beer with it. Simple and delicious!. Although in Madrid, the choice of drink is a beer with this bocata, you can go against convention and have it with a white Rueda or Cava. The acidity of the Cava will refresh the palate from the richness of the deep fried squid rings. Also, the biscuit and mineral notes of the Cava will complement nicely the fried and sea like flavors of the calamar and the white bread taste.

Now, i have not talked at all about Verdejo in this blog. This grape is perhaps most well-known, if it can be considered like that at all, in Rueda, a small region north of La Mancha and the city of Madrid and just west of the Ribera del Duero. It’s actually pretty difficult to find a description of Verdejo that is not linked to Rueda. Verdejo is native to Rueda and is not planted very extensively in other regions. Jancis Robinson, in her Vines, Grapes and Wines has this to say about Verdejo: “Of all the white varieties among Spain’s official top twenty, Verdejo is probably the one with the most marked aristocratic character.” As a casual socialist, that kind of description makes me grind my teeth a bit, but what the heck anyways.

Verdejo is a very food versatile grape. It can go well with a wide variety of foods that range from cured meats to soft cheeses, salads and of course fish and seafood. The site Wines of Rueda has an interesting chart about matching food with Verdejo. You can see it by clicking on this link.

Now the secret for a perfect calamar sandwich is to deep fry your squid rings in olive oil. But not any squid, it seems. According to Alfredo Rodriguez from the Restaurant El Brillante, in Madrid you need whole squids, since they have a higher proportion of water to meat. He also states that the best squids are the ones that comes from Mediterranean waters. They have the softest and juiciest flesh. About this, it is important to go a fish store that you can trust. For the batter, Alfredo reccomends to use the highest quality flour available. He mentions that it is in fashion right now to use a flour variety that contains ground chickpeas because of its low fat content. For the oil, he reccomends extra virgin oil, heated at 220 celsius and not passing 250 degrees. If you follow these guidelines, your squid should be perfectly fried and with a nice golden hue in 1 minute. For the bread, he reccomends that it if possible freshly baked. For more information, you can read his interview to the newspaper El Confidencial. For those readers that are more visual, Here is this video on the preparation of a Bocata de Calamares.

Cava choices for the calamar sandwich:

recaredo

Recaredo Gran Reserva Brut. SAQ Code: 12016288. Price: $33.50

Brilliant with light gold nuances. Aromas of yellow bruised apples with ground cherry jam. Interesting oxidative notes, nutty with chalky nuances. In the mouth, medium to full body. Retronasal flavors remind me of anis and flowers Good bubble with an amazing lenght. Refreshing acidity with lovely floral nuances. Long aftertaste. 94\100

sumarroca

Sumarroca Gran Reserva Brut Nature. Private Importation. Rezin. $21.60 per bottle. Case of 12

On the nose, green apple, lime and other citric fruits with toasted bread nuances. On the mouth, very mineral with a beautiful floral angle. Good acidity. Creamy and elegant with a long and savoury aftertaste. 92\100

And now for the Verdejos:

massard

Herbis Franck Massard Verdejo 2013. Private Import. Importations Syl-Vins.

On the nose typical aromas of the variety reminding me of green apples and herbal notes. In the mouth, medium to full body with flavors that bring to mind to mind ripe peaches. Beautiful lenght with a lovely aftertaste. 90\100.

rolland

Rolland & Galarretta Rueda 2012. Price: $20.85. SAQ Code:  12244889.

Hay, white fruits with notes of tropical fruits and ground cherries. In addition, beautiful green apple nuances. Medium body, buttery and very elegant. Long and spicy finale. A classy well made Verdejo. 93\100.