Ribera del Duero and natural wine is not something that you hear often these days. The region is better known for producing classical cut wines along the lines of Pesquera, Arzuaga or Protos for instance.
Lets rethink that line of thought and rethink about Ribera del Duero. I came across yesterday to something beautiful at the Bambara Selection trade tasting in Montreal, Quebec: The mythical wines of Goyo Garcia Viadero
John Bambara is really importing a gem in our Quebec market with these wines. If you are interested in having taste of the authentic Ribera from the past you must taste the wines from Goyo.
Goyo García Viadero, comes from a very important wine family in the Ribera del Duero. He has been making natural wines since the 1980s inspired by natural winemakers, such as Pierre Overnoy from the Jura. In 2003, Goyo decided to revive 3 tiny plots of old vines in the town of Roa at different plots and altitudes. By the way Roa is like the Napa Valley of Ribera del Duero hosting important wine estates such as Condado de Haza and Lopez Cristobal.
Whats interesting with Goyo is that he coferments red and white grapes and harvest for acidity like in the past. This is a far cry for the modern approach that Ribera del Duero has taken in the last decades or so with the arrival of Robert Parker in the region.
In the cellar, the grapes are all destemmed, fermented exclusively with wild yeast, and nothing is added during élevage (including SO2). The wines are then aged in old French barrels at an underground, century-old cellar
The wines tasted
Joven de Vinas Viejas 2017. ( $34.50. 12 pack case) This wine is born from a single vineyard planted entirely to Tempranillo on sandy clay & limestone soils at high elevation.
Crunchy black fruit with hints of licorice and elegant multilayered earthy nuances. On the palate, quite structured for a joven. Austere with a racy acidity and angular tannins. Will need at least 7-10 years to come together. Excellent value for the cellar.
Finca El Peruco Ribera del Duero 2015 ( $65.50, 6 pack case) Made with 85% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and 15% Albillo, Finca El Peruco is a high altitude single vineyard at 1,000 meters elevation, one of the highest points in the Ribera del Duero, on profoundly chalky, clay-calcareous soils.
The 2014 was a very profound wine. It had a nose redolent of cedar, cohiba tobacco and middle eastern spices. A bit on the oaky side at the moment but with a tremendous showcase of finesse and power. The acidity hold this wine together. Will need at least two decades to come together. Another value from the cellar. Highly reccomended, if you can get a hold of case
Finca Valdeolmos Ribera del Duero 2015 ( $65.50, 6 pack case) A blend of 90% Tinto Fino and 10% Albillo (Goyo co-ferments the grapes in the vineyard) grown on stony, sandy, limestone soils, and vinified like the other Ribera del Duero wines that Goyo makes.
The 2014 was very aromatic with multilayered ripe black fruit and lots of floral nuances. On the palate, it was more accesible than Peruco with a polished mouthfeel and chewy tannins. Flavours are consistent with the nose but not showing its true potential. Get a case and drink it over the next 15 years to follow its development
( All prices in $CDN. Invitation courtesy of Bambara Selection)