This week, I was looking back at my past tasting of some Spanish Natural wines, I could not help thinking about the analogy between Guerrilla and the Natural Wine Movement. The webster dictionary defines Guerrilla as a a member of a usually small group of soldiers who do not belong to a regular army and who fight in a war as an independent unit. Notable gueriila movements in Latin America include FMLN, FARC, Sandinista National Liberation Front and other more. Their goal is to overthrown the current political establishment using non violent and sometimes violent tactics. They are motivated by a specific political ideology. Left or Right wing. I will not comment anymore on this, since this is not a political blog.
In general, the natural wine movement are like the Guerrilleros. This is a globalized movement of winemakers who seek to make in the most natural way possible. Biological in spirit, they do not employ pesticides or any other foreign element that conventional winemaking employs. By doing so, they have turned their backs against the established winemaking order. Natural wines are revolutionary in nature. They have nothing in common with conventional wines. The ray of aromas, flavors and texture often set you out of your chair.
Spain is kind of late comer in the natural wine movement. According to some sources, the concept was introduced in Spain in barcelona via the store L’Anima del Vi. In 2008, an association of natural wine producers in Spain was founded. A specialist of natural wines in Spain is Joan Gomez Pallares who is the author of the blog De Vinis and author of the first Spanish natural wine book in Spain.
Moraza Tempranillo 2013. $17.85. SAQ Code: 12473825
A Natural Tempranillo from Rioja that set itselfs apart from the rest of the pack. A joven with aromas redolent of wild black fruits, gunpowder. In addition, complex animal nuances such as black truffles, boar skin and horse saddle. In the mouth, very fresh with a high acidity. Very elegant and well balanced with retronasal reminding of pimenton and adobo spices. Long finale. 95/100.
For those not familiar with Moraza, they are one of the star clients of the portfolio of Agence Boires. If you are new to my blog, you can read my older post about their Garnacha. For a new agency, Boire has gathered an impressive list of wineries from Italy, France, Spain and California. At the moment the Moraza is sold out at the SAQ, but will have more at the end of August.
Barranco Oscuro BO2
Barranco Oscuro makes natural wines in some of the highest altitude vineyards in Spain,They are up to 1368 meters high, in the area of La Contraviesa, in Alpujarra of Granada. These are natural wines crafted with a high respect for the environment. I discovered them last year in the Raspipav salon of Montreal. They are represented by Symbiose, another stellar Quebec agency specializing in natural wines.
B02 is a pure tempranillo displaying intriguing nuances of black earth with complex animal nuances. Wild blackberries add to the mix creating a magical bouquet. On the mouth, the wine has excellent balance between fruit concentration and balance. Lovely mineral finish. This cuvee is vinified with indigenous yeast and no SO2 is added. 93\100
Terra Remota Tan Natural Garnatxa Emporda DO 2013. La QV ( $27.05)
Terra Remota is the proyect of Marc and Emma Bournazeau, a french couple with Catalan business connections. Their vineyards are located north of Girona and not far from the French border or the Costa Brava on the Mediterranean coast. They are represented in Quebec by La QV.
On the nose, this pure Garnacha displays notes of violets and ripe black fruits. On the mouth, the wine is full body and structures. Retronasal flavors remind me of dry black fruits. Beautiful minerality on the midpalate with a long aftertaste. 95\100.